A-mer-i-cano...americano...

A mission from my fabulous New York-based performance artist friend Davi:

Hey Ms. Charlotte,
 
If you fancy a swelegant style project, here's one for ya!
 
I'm looking for a cocktail dress and some shoes to go with it.
 
I've got a bat mitzvah PARTY (not the service) to attend.  And I have  
no idea what happened to my favorite heels, which also happen to be  
green so they're limited in terms of what I can pair 'em with in my  
wardrobe).
 
Here's the scoop; after 7 months of injury, I've gained a little  
weight and the dress I'd probably be most inclined to wear to this  
party feels a little tight on me.
 
I'd love to treat myself to a new dress.
 
I've got big boobs, big thighs, a reasonably small waist (but not an  
hourglass figure), and I'm short.  (you know all this)
 
I like dresses that show off my shoulders; halters work well,  
especially with structured support for the boobies.
 
I don't really like pencil skirts/dresses because they  make it hard  
to dance.
 
I have a really great pair of gold wedge sandals (but, um, it'll be  
mid-march) and I will try to figure out what happened to these (my  
green heels):

 

I'd love to spend under $150 on the dress.
 
Ideas? I just ordered the Nanette Lepore Evermore dress off ebay and  
was looking at some DVF wrap dresses (though I own one and I know that  
it's pretty hard to find one that covers my boobs adequately).
 
Something sassy!

My knowledge of American-based shops is limited (although bigger girls in the Big Apple should visit Re/dress NYC - a fun and friendly boutique selling vintage and new plus-size gems... who knows if I'll make it myself, but were I to visit New York it'd be the first place I visited... but anyway, I digress...)   but I have found some great frocks at Pinup Girl Clothing - purveyors of punky, retro and rockabilly fashions to the American Swelegencia.

 

We're looking for some boob support (and preferably the coverage to allow for a bra), but low enough cut to flatter bigger boobs, and ideally showing some shoulder-enhancing skin.  All the dresses I've chosen have A-line or full skirts; Davi feels restricted in anything tighter, and it also makes it hard to accommodate a good fit if your thighs are proportionately larger than your waist.  The first dress ($68) is a fun cherry-print on black or white. The black is more eveningy, but the white is irresistibly reminiscent of Monroe's frock in The Misfits. Both are edged in green piping which, although it isn't the same shade as her green shoes, is tonally in the same family, and will tie the frock to the shoes.

More conventional on first look is this gorgeous black frock with blue swallow embroidery on the bodice and hip and  matching belt ($110). It's not too conventional, though: the swallows suggest sailor tattoos, and the full skirt is crying out for a net underskirt in peacock blue - or perhaps a more shocking contrast - raspberry pink, violet or emerald green. It won't show Davi's toned shoulders, but this dress is an absolute classic.

Next to website Baby Girl Boutique. A green dress here - cherries again, but this time less sexy and more girly.  I see it with those quite schoolish shoes.  The empire line is flattering to Davi's shape, and the A line will skim the thighs ($78.50). Ignore the wholesome model - this dress is funky and punky and lots of fun.

Lastly, it's back to Pin Up Girl Clothing for the Dolly Dress by Paperdoll clothing ($84).  Paperdoll make this style frock in lots of colourways - but I'm struggling to find the brighter ones in stock anywhere.  It's no good for shoulder flattery, but the length is perfect for someone petite, and again, the empire line is flattering. The one on the left has a cutesy cupcake trim, while the other has a design of retro movie monsters. I really see Davi in this dress, if all the black isn't too sober for her.

Curse that exchange rate!

Now is not the time to be buying clothes from the States - time was that the exchange rate made US shopping a steal, but now - not so much.

And yet... Look at the gorgeous goodies on the Pin Up Girl website. I've long been a fan - ever since I stumbled across the Greta Hawaiian Print dress - Modelled by yours truly above. The new range has some really exciting stuff that has my credit card itching.

The Kiss Me Deadly range is amazingly eye-catching - although partly that must be due to their fantastically pneumatic models. My eye was caught by the Polka Dot Wiggle Dress ($92) also in white on black, and plain black: the collar on the halterneck is so sharp - but sadly not bra friendly. The do, however, also have a really practical bolero jacket - something every girl should own - for $52.

Elsewhere on the site (and it's truly labyrinthine - a huge quantity of gorgeous stock). More wiggle dresses, this time by Pin Up Girl's own brand, in the form of the aptly named Jessica Dress. It comes in Hot pink/black (above), Burgundy/black, Houndstooth/black, and plain black, or scarlet red - all $88.

But it's not all slinky pencil dresses. The streetwear section of the site is chock full of ranges and designers from the states and UK. Prom dresses sit cheek by jowl with Tattoo influenced T-shirts in the section devoted to 'Lucky 13'. Elsewhere there are clothes for men, accessories and shoes.

Shipping is to be factored in though - rates start at $42, but depend on weight. They recommend buying together to make savings - but even then, it has to be a consideration. There's also the change that you'll get unlucky and UK customs will randomly select your package to levy import duty to - it's never happened to me, but it definitely happens.

The question is - can you truly resist?

Flattery, thy name is 'trouser'.

Or perhaps not. For many years I didn't worn any trousers - not even jeans... especially not jeans. The fact is that if you seek to diminish the appearance of the size of your bum, your tummy or your thighs, skirts and dresses offer greater potential. On the other hand trousers are warm, practical and can be flattering in other ways. Drawing attention to the bum or waist can be desirable if it draws the focus from elsewhere, and most trousers give the illusion of lengthening the legs.

My friend Davi, an NYC-dwelling dancer and actor, has asked for my help. She's in phenomenal yoga-toned shape but struggles with trousers because, despite a trim waist and fab booty, she doesn't like her thighs. She's also only 5'2", and this is a problem because the usual recommendation to balance out heavy thighs with a wide parallel leg can make the legs look shorter. These jeans are from US brand Newport ($39) - and I'm fishing in the dark with American stores, but they are a gorgeous cut, and the high waist (shown in the smaller picture) will visually elongate the legs. They come in regular or long lengths - which I hope would be OK for Davi, because jeans can be hard to take up. For UK readers, this pair of lighter weight trousers from M&S cost £35 and fit the same bill.

To wear high-waisters, and benefit from that elongating illusion, you need to feel confident about a close fit on the waist, tummy, and almost certainly the bum (depending on the cut). If you prefer to cover those areas with a loose-fitting top, and you still want to elongate the look of your legs, I'd advise against wide leg trousers. What you want, in that case, is the bootcut.

Bootcut trousers fit close to the leg, but then kick out a little below the knee. The reason they are flattering to heavier thighs is that they visually balance the width above the knee with the width below. Meanwhile, because the overall profile is leaner than the wide leg trousers, they are more adept at elongating over a shorter distance. For maximum flattering effect, match shoes to trousers and trousers to top. British girls, I'm again recommending M&S again, purely because I happen to be wearing a pair of their black bootcut cords at the moment, and who can beat a personal recommendation? Only £15 too. For Davi, this pair by Gloria Vanderbilt at Amazon are also a bargain at $28, but cord bootcuts seem to be a transatlantic fashion staple and plenty of other stores will stock them. Wear bootcuts long. They should just about reach the ground at the back.

My last recommendation for trousers which flatter this shape is a little contentious, but it works for me. I like to wear three-quarter length trousers. The hot pink pair below ($75) are not for the faint-hearted (more sober colours are available at the US-based website www.mybabyjo.com) but will flatter a heavier thigh, assuming that the calf on show is paler than the trouser above. It balances out by making the calf seem larger - which isn't the safest strategy, but it's sassy and fun. Cropped trousers needn't be so tight or short to have this effect. Cropped linen trousers in summer, or jeans (worn with long boots underneath) in winter will work. Keep the colour below the trouser uninterrupted - tan coloured sandals, plain boots - if you want to maximize the appearance of length. Cropped trousers are hard to find in winter. Try rockabilly websites and dress up with heels or even better, high wedges for evening.

British readers might like to take a chance on Peacocks. They have a pair on their website for £14 with some interesting design detail. Great for making a feature of the waist - but of course I can't vouch for the quality.