Charity Shop Challenge

As I explained here, while I was on holiday in Edinburgh recently I took part in a challenge from the British Heart Foundation as part f their 'Big Donation' campaign.  From the stock in one of their branches, could I style a great, swelegant look?

Could I?  It was surprisingly easy.  In fact I was so spoiled for choice I styled two big looks for Autumn / Winter.  The first is a very big trend this autumn - the New Luxe.  Neutral colours and luxury fabrics: it's a return to a tasteful, elegant, grown-up aesthetic.  Not very me (I prefer things a little rougher around the edges), but a great look.  The key piece is the camel coat.  Look for beautiful, soft natural fibres and broad lapels - think dressing gown and kimono shapes.
 

To be right 'on trend' (sorry) belt with slim brown leather: the fancy knot here is very catwalk.  Elsewhere in the outfit, seek draped necklines, pencil skirts or high waisted trousers with wide legs or cigarette slim, in tones from caramel to cream. Knitwear, as here, should be lightweight.  The boots had quite a high heel, which you can't see - but ideally I'd want something with a little more detailing and a slightly slimmer profile.

The second outfit is much more me. Velvet coats and blazers are huge this winter - I know Boden and Monsoon both have them in their collections, but this classic vintage jacket also works. With rich colours, getting a match can be hard - so combining different tones in the same opulent palette is a good solution. 

The corsage and the pearls in this look, and the gold knotted necklace in the first one are part of the BHF's collection of accessories that they sell in their branches - not donated, but new.  The berry tones in the corsage marry the purple of the dress to the wine red jacket. Layering pearls is a slightly irreverent way  to wear a more traditional style of jewellery - they look great looped around the wrist, too.

I had a really fun time styling these outfits: it made me realise how easy fashion stylists have it, though - it's easy to dress a slim mannequin (or model).  It's size, though that makes charity shops a little tricky - of course, each item is a one-off, it doesn't come in a range of sizes.  But that said, it's well worth persevering.  Shopping is a speculative activity: you don't always come away with anything... but in a charity shop you can find vintage gems that are the ancestors of today's couture looks. It's sustainable because you're saving clothes from landfill, and not creating a demand for more new garments whose production will use resources and pollute the environment, and it helps a good cause.  But more than that, it's cheaper than buying new.  Especially when we're talking about new winter coats and jackets in good quality fabrics, a reduced price can make all the difference.

A Classic Coat

I have a mission for you... I'm hoping that now is the time that I might find a winter coat in the sales?  My black coat is looking pretty scraggly and worn.  I'm after something that is a little bit fitted (I think), but still has room for me to wear a jumper underneath, black, and comes down to below the knee.  I don't have many coats, so this will be the one I can wear to weddings, or work do's.  Not sure where to start.

Well, for someone who isn't sure where to start, actually we have a really great list of preferences.  It's a fab idea to have a think before you look for new clothes, about what you'd like in an ideal world, even if you can't picture it exactly.  It may not exist, but it helps to narrow down the field.

I haven't owned a proper winter coat for years, something I only realised recently when I've been carless and commuting.  It's an item that needs to be functional - to keep you snug; durable - because it'll get daily use; and stylish - because it's the layer that people see.  Which means it's worth spending a bit on it... but then, who has that much money to splash at this time of year?  And the price of even a cheaper coat means you'll probably only own a couple - so it has to be versatile too.

The first two are available from website ASOS.  I love the first one, originally by high street chain Mango.  It's £109, reduced from £145 - and for that you get a 95% cotton/wool blend, and some rather elegant design details.  The braid on the cuffs also forms a fixed half-belt detail at the back, nipping in the waist, and those puffy sleeves leave plenty of room for your jumper.  It's dressy and feminine - I love the covered buttons and Princess Grace-style collar.  I happen to know the lady who has set the mission is not of model height, so it'll be at least knee length. Sadly sizes 10-16 only, but this is such a pretty coat I couldn't resist.

The second offering from ASOS is cheaper (£70, reduced from £90) but also a cheaper fabric with less wool content.  That said, this is a great design for hourglass and pearshapes due to it's fuller skirt, and the fact that that cosy funnel-neckline opens out to a deep, single-breasted V.  It's a wee bit shorter, but still long enough to count as a winter coat - on me, it'd be knee length.  This one's available from size 6 - 18.

The classic, no frills option here (picture in red, but available in black) is from good old Marks and Spencer.  It's £79 and available in a great range of sizes up to a UK26 - though not all sizes are in stock, everything from 14 to 24 was available in the black at the time of writing.  It's high in wool content (75%) and even has 5% cashmere in the mix.  Single-breasted coats flatter everyone, and this should suit girls of all shapes and sizes. I like the tiny puff on the shoulder and the double-effect hip pockets, echoing this season's ubiquitous Crombie: small details that tie it to this season, but wont stand out as an anachronism in years to come.

My last option is very different - not tailored or fitted at all, but stylish, practical and flattering, after a fashion.  Closed, it's nothing to write home about - though the pod-like clean lines are quite futuristic Japanese-style, but open, at least part way, this coat has a fabulous statement collar that balances the shapelessness and focuses attention on the face.  This coat is by Isabella Olivier, who is a maternity designer primarily - but this coat seems to be from her non-maternity range.  At least I think so... those models certainly aren't pregnant. It's £119.50, reduced from £239, and available from a size 6 to an 18.  The fabric is a wool cashmere blend and I think this really would count as an investment piece.

Ooh - another quicky...

Just stumbled across this Oh-so Jackie O coat at Boden.

Perfect for athletic / less curvy girls, but apple and pear-shapes can also wear this well, so long as They want to show off their pins. The length makes it really realistic and chic for just about every height too, although petite girls will need to shorten the sleeves - a simple enough job for your local alterations place - even repositioning the trim looks like it would be straightforward.

Wear this with a similar-shaped and length dress or skirt to style-up a work look or add panache to a wedding outfit (I'd advise the aqua) - it won't sit well over fullness in the skirt or a long hemline. Alternatively show off your legs with cigarette-cut trousers or capris. Gorgeous and classic - you'll wear it for years, so the £110 price tag seems fair.

Baby, it's cold outside

Not the sort of thing, apparently...

Hey there ms Charlotte, I have a problem from Australia land that maybe you could help me with. Down here summer will be over in a few weeks so I have decided to look for a new winter wool coat. Problem is most of them look AWFUL on me. I’m 5’3”, size 16, top heavy. I have pale skin, grey/blue eyes and dark hair at the moment. Most coats that fit me around the waist and hip strain around the bust. Coats that fit around the bust make me look like I’m wearing a large woolen sack, as well as most sleeves stopping somewhere around my thumbs cos of my short arms. I’m not keen on trench coats and sadly even though I think duffel coats look adorable they generally look shit on me. Any suggestions?

Hmm - I've had this mission on the back burner for a while, but I'm really struggling for two reasons. Firstly, I know absolutely nothing about Australian retailers. I've tried to research, but I'm just not 'there' with my knowledge. Secondly, over in the UK / US, retailers are already well into Spring/Summer - but I will never admit defeat. What I'm going to do is find some pictures of coats that have the flattering qualities our girl is looking for.

Coat number one (Paul Smith - £293) has a decidedly retro feel, fusing swing stylings with a modish crombie-style lapel. The shorter length and bracelet sleeves mean that there's flexibility over the length of both: shorter sleeves may sit anywhere along the lower arm to within about three inches of the wrist whereas full length sleeves really ought to hit the wrist dead on. It's generally a good idea for shorter people to wear shorter coats/dresses too. Although a clean vertical line may be elongating, a heavy garment can look like you're being dragged down to the floor, or overwhelmed. Double breasted garments will make anyone look wide and chunky, so this clean single breasted collar is great, and the deep V is flattering. It's also the case that it fastens below the bust line. Girls with big boobs should look out for this - you may well be able to get away with a closer fit than you would do if the button was higher up; essentially, your boobs fit into the gap. The overall A line shape of this coat, though, may run the risk of looking bulky.

This apple green coat is by Nanette Lapore and costs an eye-watering £405. I'm really not suggesting anyone spend that kind of money on a coat, but I am looking for pictures of things that I reckon will be influencing high street designers - this coat features a big bow at the back, and already that's something I've seen on several coats at topshop. It would work because it's a thinner fabric, which means that the waist can be cinched in a little without looking bulky. The full 'skirt' will balance out the big boobs, and again it's single breasted. My other reason for liking it was colour. I know I've said that green is difficult - and it is - but the combination of pale skin and pale eyes can (but not always) make dark colours hard to wear. The problem with colour, is that coloured coats tend to be thinner fabrics. But then, thinner fabrics are slimming... You can always rock some super stylish scarves, gloves and hats over the winter.

A cheaper option, but continuing a similar profile is this mac from Topshop (£75). There were a lot of belted coats this winter, but unless you have a very boyish figure with little defined waist, stay away from belts on thick coats. It looks bulky and chunky. On a mac, though, it's fine. Here we have the fuller skirt for balance, the lighter colour, a belt to cinch and the all-important single breasted styling. That top button is going to be on the bust line, though - and that means you'll have to make sure the fit at the top is bang on, at the expense of a closer fit elsewhere.

My last suggestion is not to choose a style which accommodates your figure, but find a coat that fits. UK readers who are top heavy can buy from Bravissimo - the bra specialists. Their coats are cut to fit over the boobs but without excess bulk at the waist. Which is why both the coats above can get away with having belts. The first is in the sale, in very limited sizes, at £49 - reduced from £112.50. Notice the single breasted styling. The second - jacket length but wool/nylon/cashmere mix for warmth - is £77.50. Bravissimo do mail order to Australia, but don't publicise the shipping costs. The alternative would be having something made or altered to fit. Perhaps a coat is something one doesn't buy that often, and so is worth getting right.

So - to recap:

Flattering (for our girl):

• Single breasted
• Lighter colours
• Deep V necklines
  
• Belts on lightweight fabrics (cold weather notwithstanding)
• Full skirts
• Shorter lengths
• Bracelet-length sleeves
• Made to measure
  

Unflattering (for our girl):

• Double breasted (Including military styling)
• Dark colours (probably)
• High necks
• Straining buttons
• Belts on thick fabrics (if non-specialist fit)
• No fitting below the boobs
• Long lengths
• Full-length sleeves (unless altered to fit)

Good luck - let me know what you find.

Three wishes

I'm loving your blog very much. My dilemas are I want everyday type tops/jumpers , a new winter coat I was thinking a parka type? Ideally I would like a hood and to come past my bum. I also want to buy new jeans.

I'm 5ft 2 1/2
9st 6llb
I'm brunette with freckles
I really don't know what body shape I am...but I def have a bottom and hips.
I don't have a fave shop but I always end up in Urban Outfitters and normally find something I like.
I don't like to look 'in fashion'.

I always have a trauma trying to buy jeans as I need a 30inch leg which thankfully shops are starting to sell. Petite jeans come up too short.

Can i be helped ?

Almost certainly.

Firstly, everyday tops and jumpers. I have a lack of these too. It seems utterly ridiculous that someone who can't move in her flat for clothes should have a leack of anything, but most of my clothes are a bit too glam for work, and I've been neglecting separates in favour of frocks for a while...

It seems that fashion is favouring quite square shapes on the torso for spring, and that isn't really flattering to anyone - especially not if you are short, as the width: height ratio is more precarious to start with. Batwing sleeves, dropped waists and blouson styles are all horribly chunky. There are also a plethora of horizontal stripes. Although this mission is for a slim girl, I really can't see the appeal of widening stripes. However, there is hope. Betty Jackson at Debenhams have the gorgeous Oriental Spot kimono top at the top of this post for £32. Although I have recommended kimono tops for boobilicious girls before, it doesn't mean that they are a no go for other body shapes. Certainly the focus on the bust will draw attention from a more substantial bum and hips. You might like to try it without a vest - those with smaller boobs can get away with showing more cleavage while still looking quite classy. Also at Debenhams is the delightful flower stem embellished top above - £20, by Rocha. John Rocha. Its simplicity accomodates the applique detail without looking too fussy - the high neck rules it out for buxom girls, though. Lastly to Marks and Sparks for the gorgeous Spot Print Bow Top below (£29.50). This top might push the label 'everyday' to its limits, but why shouldn't every day be a carnival of cheer? Once again, attention will be drawn away from the bum and hips - and this style will look great with a longer line cardigan to coordinate with trousers or skirt, and elongate the overall effect.

A hooded winter coat, past bum length, next - not so easy to find this winter. I know a parka style has been suggested, but most of these seem to be 'dusty lilac' coloured, quilted, synthetic abominations. Bucking that trend, however, are the three below. The first is by Vero Moda at House of Fraser. It is a good length for a shorter girl, and cut witha feminine flare below the waist. The super cosy funnel neck is fiunished off with a practical hood and for £54 I think it's gorgeous. But if the lady wants a parka, I think the pick of them is this classic, clean-lined black version from Ben Sherman Online. Normally a pricey £130, it's reduced to an entirely fair £60. Lastly, because I can't resist a splash of colour, is this pretty blue coat from website Oli. Probably more spring than winter, truth be told, it's a bargain at £20.

Then new jeans. We want 30 inch leg, and I am firmly of the belief that we want a bootcut to balance out the bottom and hips. The ones below are bargains from New Look - only £10. They also come in black, or with pre-faded pattern. With jeans, no matter what the label says, you have to try them on. In view of this, the lady in question might like to know that there are 30" bootcut jeans at the following retailers: Vero Moda at House of Fraser, (£24); Crafted at Republic (£34), Peacocks (£12); and Dotty P's (£25)