Full Circle - Skirts for Fun and Frolics and Flattery

I was asked months ago by a friend to have a look at circle skirts, but I confess I forgot.  Still, she has reminded me, and so here we are.  Circle skirts flatter most hourglass and pearshaped women, but actually give the impression of curves to anyone with boobs bigger than their waist - and they're forgiving of bums, hips and thighs, and tummies too, if like me you bulge out primarily below your natural waist.  They're a fun, lighthearted sort of shape, often - but not always - evocative of a retro 1950s look, and as the Autumn Winter collections reassured us, they're going to be around more and more over the coming months.

The retro look of the circle skirt is fairly obvious - they're much beloved for giving incomparable swirl and movement when dancing, and you need a lot of skirt to top a net petticoat.  The skirts above and top are by Hellbunny, cost less than £20, but come in a terribly limited range of sizes: only going up to a 14.  I include them because they're fun, but for similar skirts you could also try Wagtails Dancewear, who have a good range of sizes and patterns in a slightly longer length.

Length then.  Most circle skirts fall between 'just above the knee' to 'tea length' (upper calf), and certainly it's worth bearing in mind that most retro petticoats are designed to fall just below the knee if you're average height.  But the full circle skirt has many incarnations. Taken shorter it becomes a skater skirt, and these are huge fun if you're confident showing your legs (be aware that circle skirts of any length have a tendency to get caught by the slightest gust of wind and expose more leg than you'd planned) - ASOS have a good range of these up to a size 22.  Taken longer than calf length, and without a petticoat to create the shape, all that extra volume becomes quite blowsy.  They are around - the example above is by fashion brand American Apparel, and you'll find a lot of them in 'hippy' shops, but it's not a flattering look.  As a rule of thumb, the longer a skirt is, the stronger silhouette it needs.

What about a modern look? Well, a circle skirt doesn't need to be dressed up in retro trappings to be a flattering option.  The skirt above is by catalogue company Very, and with its net overlayer looks very contemporary and clean-lined.  It's available up to a size 24 and costs a reasonable £32.  To avoid echoes of the fifties, don't overplay the waist with a cinched belt, and whereas you would wear a more retro look with ballet pumps, wedge heeled espadrilles or curvy high heels, here you'd keep things modern with some more modern lines as above, or perhaps a tomboyish pair of flat, heavy-soled boots.

In most cases, circle skirts look best with a close fitted top, to give definition to the waist, but of course if you opt for a dress you don't have to think about what to wear with it. Obviously purveyors of fine retro frocks Vivien of Holloway and Collectif, amongst others, will cater perfectly to your vintage-look needs, but contemporary fashion also provides.  The dress above is silk, by Great Plains at Oli, and it breaks my heart to say it only goes up to a size sixteen, because it truly is gorgeous. £59 reduced from £85.  For other full skirted frocks, look for anything called a 'prom dress'.  Odd terminology (have you seen what is generally worn to proms?), but the silhouette is usually right.

Lastly, an apology and a request. My friend did ask me to find a particular skirt that she saw, once upon a time in some long-lost corner of the internet. I couldn't track it down, but maybe the swelegencia can? We're looking for a circle skirt with flames appliques or embroidered around the hem. Please pass the information on via the comments box or email if you happen across it on your travels.

Edit - one suggestion from the lovely people at Biscuit Boutique: This gauzy number from Mode Merr - handmade and with a breathtaking price to reflect all the work involved.

Good News for More Retro-Loving girls.

 A couple of my very favourite dresses were from the online boutique Collectif.  They specialise in retro looks with a slightly punky edge, and at pretty reasonable prices... But about eighteen months ago, with no explanation, they stopped stocking anything over a size 16.  I was disappointed - I sent an email on behalf of the blog - but no response was given (which I still think is pretty shocking customer service). To the present day, though, and not only have Collectif begun to reintroduce sizes up to a 22 (in a very limited range of stock now, but the website seems to have been set up to suggest that bigger sizes will become the norm) but also until 21st June you can get a 20% discount if you enter the code SUGAR at checkout.  I can't lie - I did just that, buying the frock above.

The polka dot dress (£50 - various colours and prints) I bought is basically the same shape and style as the cute sailor dress (£55, also available in black and navy).  It's flattering to hourglass shapes, disguises tummies, bums and thighs, and can be worn with a flouncy retro underskirt (available in many other retro stores) for more fifties-tastic impact.

If you have a more flat stomach, there are plenty of pencil skirts and wiggle dresses in the range (although not yet in the larger sizes). I love the 'Lust' dress, above, for its dramatic portrait collar and asymmetric buttons (£50).

There are separates too - of which the Dolores top (£25) is my buxom favourite.  The curves of this clever neckline will enhance small boobs, while flattering the fuller embonpoint because of it's diagonal lines.
 

There is also a new range by  Bordello Shoes on the site.  All fantastically impractical, I particularly love these 'too fabulous to be true' Teeze platforms (£49.95).

If you're new to Collectif, I think it's well worth a look - generally reasonable value, and with a 20% reduction as well, you may find something to treat yourself with.

Ooh la ladybird!

Tonight I need cheering up, so I'm going to indulge myself by wallowing in some of my favourite clothes.

Polka dots have been a passion for me since childhood.  The young Miss Charlotte was enamoured of the aesthetic chosen by gothy Scottish popstrels Strawberry Switchblade (and the music, but that's a different story).  Then as a teenager my first true love was a young man who modelled himself on the singers Iain McCulloch and Robert Smith, and had a signature look involving polka dot shirts and skintight jeans.  I taught myself to sew with two polka dot skirts and a pair of baby-pink polka dot dungaree shorts... fast forward to more recent times and even my wedding dress had an overlay of cream polka dots.  But in the last year or so, I've accumulated three polka dot purchases which are all, inescapably, in the crimson and black hues of the lovely ladybird.

Click for larger pics.

It started with this dress from Rockabilly/Punk online boutique Collectif (although they don't sell it now - or indeed much else in the same size). I bought it because of the polka dots, but also because I wanted something new to wear for the late lamented regular People's Republic of Disco club night, where red and black was the non-compulsory dress code.  I know it looks short - remember: not only am I short myself, but it's also very wide.  And look - there I am on the right, in the clubbing section of Time Out - proving that it's an excellent party frock!  It's a great standby, this: my version of the 'little black dress'.  I can wear it over trousers if I'm feeling self-conscious about my legs, it doesn't show too much boob and it isn't too dressy... but it still looks like I've put on something a bit special.

Then, as I mentioned in one of my first blog posts (here), I found a pair of super-cheap spotty low-heel shoes, meant to appeal to the kids' souvenir market in Barcelona. As I mention in my earlier post: they appealed to me immediately as 'ladybird shoes' - it wasn't until later that I realised that they match the frock.  These lovely low heels are comfy enough to be worn all night.  Around then I began to consider what it was about this particular permutation of polka dots that appealed so strongly.  The crimson tone is deep, richer than a more firey scarlet hue, and this more bluey red flatters my dark hair and pale skin (orangey reds are better for fair hair or for tanned complexions).  This red, then is juxtaposed with black - a powerful combination of mischief and strength.  Minnie Mouse sports a red dress with white polka dots, and that's a far more innocent look.  But for me, there's also something cool and cute about ladybirds themselves.  The female identity, the bright colours, the childlike pattern... ladybirds rock.

Then, last summer, when I was searching for something special to wear for my hen night, I went back to the ladybird pattern for a third time. I'd already decided on plain pink dresses from Vivien of Holloway for my bridesmaids, and now I went all out one of their showstopping frocks for myself, in what else but red with big black dots.  It's still available now - £59 for the dress and the matching bolero is £25.  The dresses are boned in the bodice and very full in the skirt - they look great on their own or even better with a full petticoat.

As you can see, it's quite a show-stopping look... you need to carry it off with some confidence.  Why do I love it?  The slightly larger size of the polka dots make it more flattering for my large build - more so than the first dress, and it's so flattering to this over-inflated hourglass body. The dress only comes in halterneck though, and although I customised a bra to fit under the halter, very big boobs make for a very painful neck by the end of the night - when I next wear it (on Saturday, for my birthday), I'll convert it to shoulder straps. Finally, a gratuitous closeup.  Photos like this make me love my body just the way it is - and what better reason could there be to have a passion for great clothes?.

                          

What I wore on my holidays part one: Hail to Miss Holloway.

Ah, how I've missed having clothes to write about that I didn't hate.

I have a bargain for all you retro-chic acolytes worshipping at the shrine of Mad Men goddess Joan Holloway.  I recently watched all on seasons two and three back-to-back and made a resolution, inspired by that statuesque siren to put myself together a little more elegantly.  Well, having sprained both ankles a while back, I've had to eschew heels, and I did try to wear foundation every day but it made my skin break out... maybe it's a look for occasions...  And I have found a great dress to wear on those red-letter days.

In limited sizes now from Ann Harvey but only £22 in the sale (of course, I paid £40 - sod's law, but still a decent reduction from £80), it's a really interesting piece of tailoring and much more flattering than the photo suggests.  Even if it isn't still available in your size, it's worth having a look at why it works.  The wide, V neckline acts as a frame for your face, while also simultaneously drawing attention to the boobs and making them look less bulky (this dress won't work unless you're fairly buxom - although you needn't have quite my ridiculous proportions). The deep bands of trim that follow the crossover shape of the bodice also detract from the obvious shape of the boobs.  This gives a more sophisticated, tailored look.  The vertical darts at the front avoid excess bulk without the need for a stretch fabric, but aren't so tight as to make the dress cling to the tummy: always a problem with 'pencil' skirts and dresses.  The sleeves are an absolutely optimum length for flattery.  They cover all the worst, widest parts, the length balances them out beautifully and is right for that retro look, where short-short sleeves are rare.  I'm not so keen on the length on me, and the colour isn't easy to wear, but it's a fantastic example of this kind of frock.

Where else can you look for this kind of dress?  Well, there are many sites in the states, of which Pin Up Girl Clothing is my favourite - an absolute Aladdin's cave of hourglass frockery.  To buy in the UK without incurring prohibitive postage charges and running the risk of customs fees, I recommend Pin Up Parade.  The owner of the site imports the frocks from America in low numbers, so it's a bit luck of the draw.  At the moment she has this curvetastic number in an XXXL only (size 20, nominally, but check the detailed size chart) - £80.

This has a high neckline, so be aware that it will make your boobs look bigger.  Both the dresses so far have really been for the girl who already has something of an hourglass shape.  This look is a little different on ladies with less waist definition, but still very classy.  You need to look for something with a high neckline, and pleated tailoring either side of the waist.  This frock (below, £65) is really classy, has wonderful sleeves and reminds me of sixties air hostesses.  It'd look sexy as hell with a pair of scarlet heels, too.

                             

Keep belts thin and stockings sheer for this look.  Heels and lipstick must be worn. This is high maintenance dressing, but in a really good way.

Hair do (bee-doo-bee-doo).

before and after

Hello, my name's Charlotte and it had been 18 months since my last haircut. Partly down to laziness, partly shame. It had been a similar length of time since I last hennaed my hair, and my roots were ear-length. I'm a great believer that in the fraught world of 'getting your hairdresser to give you what you ask for', it's very important to go in looking stylish and groomed.

But I recently did henna my hair, and with it being half term (a week of school, for my international readers), and with the first of this year's weddings happening this Saturday, I thought it timely to get chopped. I'd heard a lot about It's Something Hells in Kingly Court - off Carnaby Street. It's a small concern: only one female stylist: Miss Betty - a gorgeous flame-haired frenchwoman. She was very sweetly horrified by the length of my hair, but I assured her I was more than happy to have it drastically reduced, and she set about doing so (with that customary hairdresser's knack of cutting it to a level significantly higher than the one you both agreed on...).

After cutting, she styled it with tongs and pins, setting it in great fat barrel rolls which she then unpinned, brushed through, and magically coaxed into perfect, sexy waves. I floated out of the shop on a cloud of gorgeousness, and sadly into a mist of fine drizzle - so that by the time I got home to take these photos, the full effect was somewhat diminished. My own fault. Should have taken and umbrella, or a headscarf, or both.

The haircut is, of course completely wearable without the retro setting: I'm not a full-time rockabilly gal - not even in the holidays. It is shorter than I've worn my hair for about ten years (since my traumatic televised haircut for BBC2's now defunct 'Looking Good') but that isn't really troubling me at the moment. Maybe I'm ready for a shade more sophistication?

It cost £50 for a cut and full style, which considering the time it took (1hr 15mins) and the 'specialness' of the treatment - I think compares favourably with my regular hairdresser's price of £35. Absolutely no use to readers outside London, and of somewhat niche interest to the rest, I still thought I'd share. The dress is the one in the black and white photo on the left. It was from Evans about a year ago, so no shopping recommendations either. Normal service will be resumed soon.

I reckon I'll be due another cut at the end of April, just before my sister's wedding. Can't wait.

the salon

In your shoes

Right missy, I have these shoes:

and this dress, minus the white shirt part:

and I want to wear them together for a wedding next month. Think 40s style. Find me some accessories - I'm stumped as to what colour stockings to wear.

Wow - those shoes are gorgeous. Sadly they are unavailable now (Agent Provocateur doesn't have a footwear collection at the moment), but there's a size 8 pair on ebay at the moment. The dress is absolutely classic, too - and will suit Sarah who is slender but also has a fantastic hourglass figure. What it's also important to know is that Sarah has alabaster-pale skin, and lovely dark wavy hair.

Let's look at stockings first. There are two types of stocking: those which are 'fully fashioned', and those which are not. Fully fashioned stockings are made the old fashioned way on specialist machinery, and the cuban/pointed heel, and seam are a result of the stocking being sewn together from a piece of shaped silk or nylon. They are obviously more expensive, and not suitable for larger than a UK dress size 14-16. You can get unopened packs of vintage stockings on ebay, for that real authentic touch.

The problem with these is that vintage stockings, and those made in the vintage style, are often black or tan only. For this outfit, Sarah needs to match her stockings to her shoes. Footwear should never be lighter in shade than your hosiery if you're going for classic elegance. So Sarah might end up with modern stockings, where the seam is stitched on after the stockings have been made as a tube. Modern type stockings are cheaper, but I'm still really pleased to have found some fully fashioned stockings in ivory. You wouldn't want ivory in a thicker denier - we're not looking to create the 'cream tights' look - but these are in effect just fleshtone for paler skins. The ivory seam is elegant too. It's fine to look gorgeous at a wedding, but turning down the sex appeal just a shade is probably wise for most people. There are many makes of seamed stocking which are nude with a brown or black seam (or even red or blue!) but it is more femme fatale than class personified.

If it weren't a wedding, black seams would be a way of visually tieing the black dress to the pale shoes. So we'll need to do that another way. Instead, we're going to use the dark, brick red which outlines the detail on the shoes. I already know Sarah looks gorgeous with dark red lips, and she needs to work that shade through the rest of her outfit. Opinions are divided on the classiness of red nails, but a brick red, worn on short nails will look gorgeous. Bring this colour through to the hair with a comb, clip or fascinator, securing one side of the hair back for a Rita Hayworth-style cascade on the other - try ebay for a huge collection made by home crafters... and feathers for an authentic 40s look.

I'd keep jewellery small and subtle for the most part although I'd make an exception for these perfect earrings, £8.99. The dress needs something to break up the black, so I'd look for a gorgeous vintage brooch - ebay again, for bargains like this, currently £4.99. Other accessories I'd keep black - an overdone accent colour can be a little jarring.

Of course, other readers might just be coveting the frock, in which case similar dresses can be found - although not identical. For the slim, try this sleeveless frock from M&S for £25, or more forgiving to a fuller figure herald the return of the flutter dress from Dotty Perkins, £25.

Edit - apparently, modom wants a belt, and a bag big enough for a dslr (hefty camera). OK - the belt is easy peasy: House of Fraser, Linea - lizard effect belt. Slimmer by far than for a fifties look, but not so insubstantial as to be unflattering for her hourglass curves. Comes in black or red. I'm erring toward black. £19.

Come back for the bag... I'm working on it.

Ok - A frame bag should sort out your camera issues - although check the dimensions. My favourite is a thing of utter beauty. Leather, with a patent croc effect, you'd want to hide away the silver Jasper Conran tag, because it detracts from the clean lines. Not cheap - £75 - but look after it and it's an investment piece. A little cheaper, and slightly less retro is this by Betty Jackson £60. Perhaps a little paler than the shoes, but they won't be next to each other.

Howzat?

Oh my! I could actually weep.

Yesterday I bought the above frock to wear while celebrating my impending birthday.

Today I got an email from Collectif (retailers of said frock), announcing their one week, 50% off everything sale - from 17th - 24th January.  Poo.  

Anyway, you presumably haven't just paid full price for a frock from Collectif, and so really should consider paying half price for one.  The frock I bought is called sugar, and I chose it because, unlike many retro frocks, not only is it not a halterneck, the straps aren't the thin 'spaghetti' type, so beloved of prom dresses.  The problem then is not that they show your bra (no big deal), but that a thin strap can look lost in all that expanse of arm, shoulder and cleavage -  making your flesh look swampingly huge by comparison.  The sugar dress avoids this problem by borrowing from the Mouret Galaxy dress in it's lines.  I bought it in pink with black flocked animal print (rarr) for £45.  In the sale it comes in at a much more modest £22.50. Find dresses here.

Collectif is also the home of the 321 skirt (£30 before discount): a modern take on the circle skirt witha built-in net underskirt, and more pencil skirts than you can shake a stick at, including the ultra high-waisted Heidi style (also £30 before discount). Find skirts on this page.

There are trousers, cardies and bags - plus some items already heavily discounted in the sale - and it's 50% off the lot from from 17th -24th.  Use the coupon code 'shocking' and click submit to view the reduction before paying.  Please don't do this before 17th!

Curse that exchange rate!

Now is not the time to be buying clothes from the States - time was that the exchange rate made US shopping a steal, but now - not so much.

And yet... Look at the gorgeous goodies on the Pin Up Girl website. I've long been a fan - ever since I stumbled across the Greta Hawaiian Print dress - Modelled by yours truly above. The new range has some really exciting stuff that has my credit card itching.

The Kiss Me Deadly range is amazingly eye-catching - although partly that must be due to their fantastically pneumatic models. My eye was caught by the Polka Dot Wiggle Dress ($92) also in white on black, and plain black: the collar on the halterneck is so sharp - but sadly not bra friendly. The do, however, also have a really practical bolero jacket - something every girl should own - for $52.

Elsewhere on the site (and it's truly labyrinthine - a huge quantity of gorgeous stock). More wiggle dresses, this time by Pin Up Girl's own brand, in the form of the aptly named Jessica Dress. It comes in Hot pink/black (above), Burgundy/black, Houndstooth/black, and plain black, or scarlet red - all $88.

But it's not all slinky pencil dresses. The streetwear section of the site is chock full of ranges and designers from the states and UK. Prom dresses sit cheek by jowl with Tattoo influenced T-shirts in the section devoted to 'Lucky 13'. Elsewhere there are clothes for men, accessories and shoes.

Shipping is to be factored in though - rates start at $42, but depend on weight. They recommend buying together to make savings - but even then, it has to be a consideration. There's also the change that you'll get unlucky and UK customs will randomly select your package to levy import duty to - it's never happened to me, but it definitely happens.

The question is - can you truly resist?