A new direction - back to the missions.

 
I've received a new mission from a New Zealand reader:

Yay! I'd missed your blog Charlotte, great to have you posting again!

I have a questions for SSS- my look has fallen a bit flat! I'm getting past the jeans-and-t-shirt-for-all-occasions phase I've been in for the last decade, but I've no real inspiration of what to look for instead. I don't want to be too "flowery" but I do want to feel a bit more feminine and look a bit smarter. I'm pretty busty, size 12UK (14AUS), olive skin and dark hair. What colours/styles should I be looking at?

 This lady is gorgeous: tall, dark and beautiful.  She rides motorbikes, too. Very seriously cool.  But not even she can make jeans and t-shirts look swelegant.  So what can she do?  Well, I'm not going to start suggesting frocks for every occasion, but I'm fairly confident there's a clear path to a gorgeous look that she'll find wearable.  The key change is going to be focused on tops.  She's a slim lady, so it's not that we want to disguise anything, but big boobs need to be both accentuated and at the same time, not allowed to steal the all the limelight.

It's summer in New Zealand, and a pretty top worn with plain linen trousers (I assume the model on the left forgot hers) is a look that's feminine and elegant, but also relaxed and practical.  Olive skins need deep colours near the face, but avoid black, dark blue, green etc in summer because it just doesn't sit well in the sunshine (fortunately, this matters less on your bottom half).  Try patterns (polka dots, stylised flowers, stars...) which feature intense bright colours such as crimsons, deep turquoises, bright sky blues and raspberry pinks.  Avoid thin straps like the plague if you have big boobs - you need a wider strap to make your boobs look in proportion.  Halternecks - with thick straps - can, however, look stunning if back and arms are slim - the one above is a great cut, though probably too light in colour to flatter our girl.  Avoid anything with a high or strictly horizontal neckline and say 'no' to strapless tops or anything with smocking over the bust.  Try to find tops with some kind of empire-line (horizontal seam under the bust) as this will stop big boobs from making the whole torso look matronly.  Avoid vest tops where possible - something in a non-cling fabric will make you look fresh, cool and elegant (as well as skimming any little lumps and bumps).

For work, and in cooler weather, my recommendation is the kimono neckline.  Wear it with a vest, (as left) for daytime modesty, and without for maximum impact.  The kimono top will have an empire line profile(probably with ties at the back), and either a deep plunging, or slightly cross-over neckline.  If there are sleeves they should be wide and loose.  These tops come in lots of different fabrics, from t-shirt cotton to silk and couldn't be easier to wear.  It's really no different to t-shirt and jeans.  They look great with dark denim slim-cut bootlegs or skinny jeans, leggings, or my preference, which is the straight-cut wide-leg trouser. Keep shoes flat.
 
Lastly, I must apologise for there being no actual shopping recommendations here.  Wrong hemisphere and wrong season - but I hope the principles help.

A shortage of tops.

Miss Charlotte, any idea where i can get some longish smart/casual tops for work? i work in care/education with teenagers, so it needs to be not too revealing , its quite an active jobs (lots of manual handling, helping them with personal care,running around playing silly games etc) so it needs to be able to wear in layers so i can stay at a sensible temp, but also smart enough to be able to look presentable for meetings and during class times. doesn't have to be as smart as mainstream teacher type clothing, but not too casual either. atm, i wear mostly jeans/black trews, and v neck jumpers with vest underneath. I'm 5'10, large boobs, and trying to hide a post pregnancy tummy. any suggestions gratefully received as i currently have two tops on a loop!

The search for practical, flattering, reasonably priced work tops is bugging me lately, too. The new season ranges seem to lean heavily on design features that widen the look of the torso - and when you start with big boobs, that's a nightmare. The top above is deeply wrong, and yet you'll find similar in just about every shop at the moment. It's wrong for the following reasons: the drop waist draws attention to your hips with a horizontal line - and furthermore, the billowing blouson effect adds bulk to every tummy - not just post pregnancy ones. You want a loose fit - but you don't need to draw attention to which specific area needs the room. The batwing sleeves add volume between the torso and arms. Even as you move your arm, there's no visual distinction between body and arm - and the over all impression is that you're adding the width of the arms to the body.

Then look at the neckline. The round neck is a reasonable height, but round lines at the neck make big boobs look bigger. But the main problem at the neck is the gathering, which will make the neck and decolletage look tiny compared to the boobs. I don't want my boobs to look any bigger, thanks. By having no tailoring between the neckline and the dropped waist, the boobs seem visually united. Or droopy, if you will.

So what do we want? Well according to the rules of flattery, the best option is the kimono neck tunic. Very often the neckline is low, so a vest is needed - but this enables you to strip down a layer if you begin to feel too warm. The black and white top above, from Urban Outfitters is only £5 in the sale - up to a size 14, and would look gorgeous with a bright coloured vest underneath. The red and black oriental print tunic above is from Debenhams and costs £25 and is available up to a size 22. I think the pattern is really lovely - the sleeves are perfect, and the only fly in the ointment is that it already has an 'insert' where you would wear a vest - except I would be prepared to bet that you'd want more of a cover up for working with teenagers. Still, a black vest shouldn't look too odd.

Of course, there are other options: Bravissimo cater specifically for girls with big boobs and so their tops don't need the tailoring features that other top do if they are to achieve visual separation of boob and body. I like the twist neck top in Raspberry wine or chocolate (£25.50), but it isn't as long as the tunics, and so less practical. It's probably less forgiving of post-baby tummy as well. The final option is a cross-over top - but you want one that ties in at the waist, rather than fastens at the hip. The one above is by Linea at House of Fraser it costs £20, or £15 in black, although sadly the claret option is sold out. Sizes up to XL.

Three wishes

I'm loving your blog very much. My dilemas are I want everyday type tops/jumpers , a new winter coat I was thinking a parka type? Ideally I would like a hood and to come past my bum. I also want to buy new jeans.

I'm 5ft 2 1/2
9st 6llb
I'm brunette with freckles
I really don't know what body shape I am...but I def have a bottom and hips.
I don't have a fave shop but I always end up in Urban Outfitters and normally find something I like.
I don't like to look 'in fashion'.

I always have a trauma trying to buy jeans as I need a 30inch leg which thankfully shops are starting to sell. Petite jeans come up too short.

Can i be helped ?

Almost certainly.

Firstly, everyday tops and jumpers. I have a lack of these too. It seems utterly ridiculous that someone who can't move in her flat for clothes should have a leack of anything, but most of my clothes are a bit too glam for work, and I've been neglecting separates in favour of frocks for a while...

It seems that fashion is favouring quite square shapes on the torso for spring, and that isn't really flattering to anyone - especially not if you are short, as the width: height ratio is more precarious to start with. Batwing sleeves, dropped waists and blouson styles are all horribly chunky. There are also a plethora of horizontal stripes. Although this mission is for a slim girl, I really can't see the appeal of widening stripes. However, there is hope. Betty Jackson at Debenhams have the gorgeous Oriental Spot kimono top at the top of this post for £32. Although I have recommended kimono tops for boobilicious girls before, it doesn't mean that they are a no go for other body shapes. Certainly the focus on the bust will draw attention from a more substantial bum and hips. You might like to try it without a vest - those with smaller boobs can get away with showing more cleavage while still looking quite classy. Also at Debenhams is the delightful flower stem embellished top above - £20, by Rocha. John Rocha. Its simplicity accomodates the applique detail without looking too fussy - the high neck rules it out for buxom girls, though. Lastly to Marks and Sparks for the gorgeous Spot Print Bow Top below (£29.50). This top might push the label 'everyday' to its limits, but why shouldn't every day be a carnival of cheer? Once again, attention will be drawn away from the bum and hips - and this style will look great with a longer line cardigan to coordinate with trousers or skirt, and elongate the overall effect.

A hooded winter coat, past bum length, next - not so easy to find this winter. I know a parka style has been suggested, but most of these seem to be 'dusty lilac' coloured, quilted, synthetic abominations. Bucking that trend, however, are the three below. The first is by Vero Moda at House of Fraser. It is a good length for a shorter girl, and cut witha feminine flare below the waist. The super cosy funnel neck is fiunished off with a practical hood and for £54 I think it's gorgeous. But if the lady wants a parka, I think the pick of them is this classic, clean-lined black version from Ben Sherman Online. Normally a pricey £130, it's reduced to an entirely fair £60. Lastly, because I can't resist a splash of colour, is this pretty blue coat from website Oli. Probably more spring than winter, truth be told, it's a bargain at £20.

Then new jeans. We want 30 inch leg, and I am firmly of the belief that we want a bootcut to balance out the bottom and hips. The ones below are bargains from New Look - only £10. They also come in black, or with pre-faded pattern. With jeans, no matter what the label says, you have to try them on. In view of this, the lady in question might like to know that there are 30" bootcut jeans at the following retailers: Vero Moda at House of Fraser, (£24); Crafted at Republic (£34), Peacocks (£12); and Dotty P's (£25)

A windfall.

I've just received £50 of M&S vouchers. An unexpected surprise, but nothing's crying out to me from the current line. I suppose I should be sensible and wait until the post Xmas sales - especially since I don't imagine I can redeem said vouchers online - but (confession) I hate sales shopping, so I might give in to temptation a little earlier. It's not the shopping per se - I just hate queueing for changing rooms and fighting with grannies for a chance to pick over the offerings.

I'm somewhat taken with the neckline of this 'Ponte' dress (£35) - Art deco structuring and Mouret-esque straps. It's a little bare to wear at work; the girls will call 'bingo wings' if they see them... The empire line is flattering, though.

Posing a similar 'too dressy for work?' dilemma is this fabulous mock-layer pussy bow top. (£29.50). It succeeds where the 'what I wore to work' dress failed - in that it has wonderful longer-length sleeves - but whereas royal purple satin is restrained opulence, this cerise is all rather 'Studio 54'. The black V neck styling is flattering, though - and I am still loving the sexy-secretary look. This would be great with a black pencil skirt.

But of course, M&S is synonymous with undies - and although it doesn't quite come in my size, I might try on the closest size available to see if I can get away with this firm control multiway body (£39.50). M&S don't tend to be wonderfully reliable on larger cup size bras, so fitting in person is essential but with a body, where there is support all the way up you torso, you can sometimes play a little bit fast-and-loose with sizing. Using the fairly reliable equation that if you go up a back size, you can go down a cupsize and still get a bra to fit, if not support as well, I might have a bit of an experiment with this item.

Work the glamour.

With the upcoming Christmas season I need some fabulous things to wear for a number of occasions. However, a few of them will have the same people at them so I'm after some separates that I can chop and change. Ideally as I'm utterly skint, these could be things I could wear for work as well.

Please help me in my hour of need!

When categorising clothes as either 'work' or 'play', sometimes there are clear signals - it's a rare workplace where a sequinned corset would be standard daywear - but more often than not it's about adaptation and context. The outfit below is very sexy-secretary with a hint of Katherine Hepburn, but the same top worn with a pair of black bootcut jeans or my favourite: the black velvet wide-leg trousers, becomes - by virtue of its glorious colour and sheer fabric - a show-stopping party top. It's only £16 from Simply Be, available in sizes 14 and up, and is cut long enough for longer-bodied girls. You could even wear it untucked with a belt on top. Apart from the sleeve length, it's an essential buy.

The other trick, for a girl who has a cleavage to be proud of, is to wear something with a flattering deep V neck, but with a vest underneath during the day. I really love this hankyhem tunic from Dotty Perkins (£22) - I've shown it in grey because the photograph is clearer, but you'll almost certainly want it in the black, which is what I've linked to. That triangle at the bottom of the V where the vest will show during the day is the chance to inject some dynamism into your work wardrobe. Imagine a bright turquoise, a jewel-like purple or a festive red. Vests are cheap to pick up from all kinds of place and are a great way to accessorise. Then when worn without the vest you can jazz it up with some funky, chunky beads. As well as the flattering neckline, the draping flow of this top is flattering to tummies and hips. Dress down with jeans or up with black trousers and heels.

The last trick is suitable for a blouse like this purple spotted shirt from Debenhams (£22). The top is sheer, so you'll probably wear a vest underneath it at work - for an evening out, leave it undone and tie it in a knot at the boobs (in the manner of the blue top below). The fullness of the shirt makes the tight fitting vest area look more streamlined, and the knotting draws focus to your boobs.

Boobilicious party top

Dear Miss Charlotte,

Looking for a party top - similar dimensions to your good self up top but with upper arms like hams - love black, hate shopping.
Any ideas?

Love Ceej x

Like hams, eh? I know that one. I should cover my arms for the sake of public decency (my Mum would be appalled) but there's markedly little choice. Evans - who should know better - have 48 'Going Out' tops. Some have sleeves that would stop right on the widest part of the arm, and are therefore deeply unflattering, and the vast majority have no sleeves at all! One top has sleeves that would be flattering, but the rest of the garment looks like a tent, so I'm not even going to link to it.

My first option isn't plain black, but is a brilliant cut for our shape, and has a lovely scattering of sequins. It's by Simply Be - who are catalogue and online only - and I can't recommend their stuff across the board. Some is great, but some of it is horribly cheaply made. Look very carefully at their photos. This tunic looks ok. Worth a try, but perhaps a little plain.

Not completely black, and you'd want to try it on to see how the sleeves fitted, but this top by Rocha. John Rocha at Debenhams is much prettier. The kimono style is a really safe bet for our shape, and that neckline will look phenomenal with your cleavage, Ms Ceej.

But I think this is the winner. The last choice has perfect sleeves, astonishing cleavage potential, is entirely black and it'ss even in the sale! £20 at Wallis will buy you this Black Deco trim top (they call it a kimono, because of the underbust tie - but I think a kimono should have a wrap neckline...). This is completely flattering and plain enough to wear some fabulous jewellery with. Wear with the velvet wide leg trousers and heels - go on! Easy-peasy glamour.

Dining out

dear miss charlotte - I need something lovely to wear for a night out (meal with boyfriend and maybe dad) at xmas. can you help cos I'm stuck?

Woo hoo! All the fun of shopping and no actual damage done to my bank account. The gorgeous lady in question is longer of limb and smaller on top than me... so here's what I think will suit for her shape.

Firstly, because my friend doesn't feel comfy in a frock, she'll be happy to know that dinner out is perfect territory for a gorgeous top and trousers. Your top half will be in view more or less all night, so it's especially important to get that bit right - and for xmas, we need somthing a bit decorative. I really like the top above from Monsoon - it's 100% devore silk, but at £65 it is quite pricey for a top. The sheer sections give comforting coverage but look luxurious rather than frumpy, and the burnout effect is just gorgeous - it looks like lace but isn't as naff. High neck, patterned boobs... I would look awful in it, but I bet it'd look dead flattering on my mate. She'll like it too, because it's black - but I wonder if I can't find something more colourful.

This tunic is £35 from Dorothy Perkins, and I love the Art Deco influenced sunbursts of sequins. All over shimmer is dangerous unless you're a waif, but the longer cut and vertical positioning of these sparkles elongates and slims. The back features a lowish cowl effect - but not too low to wear a bra - and that's a sexy alternative to a low cut top especially if you have short hair, like my friend. I'd cut out the silly tie at the top, though. It looks a bit eighties market-stall to me... It's a gorgeous colour, too (although it does come in black).

Lastly, a gorgeous offering from Principles (£45). Beautiful colours, beading detail and muted gold - the shape skims the torso and makes boobs look a bit bigger to boot. This shape is an absolute no-no for me, but it's totally perfect for my friend. This dark teal blue is really flattering to paler skins and accentuates red tones in the hair splendidly.

I'd wear any of the above with a pair of black wide-legged trousers and heels, or some smart dark blue jeans - not too baggy - again, probably with heels, but not if they made you feel uncomfy. Dinner out, however, involves a lot of sitting down. If you can't wear heels to dinner, I suspect you never will!